Toronto is well known for its ability to cater to the palate of picky eaters with a wide range of restaurants and international styles of cuisine. That being said, most are located in the west end. Thankfully, those who live and work on the east side of Yonge Street are finally getting a little culinary love. Situated in the historic St. Lawrence Market neighborhood, Cresta brings together traditional Italian flavors with a touch of contemporary California lightness.
Upon entering, the airy space takes up two stories (part of which is a heritage building), with floor-to-ceiling windows, dressed in tones of caramel and rust. The open concept main floor is dominated by a circular bar with a temperature controlled surface that wraps around a 35-foot-tall wine chandelier (displaying 500 bottles of Thomas George Estates wines). The second floor mezzanine offers a more private dining experience. During the day, the restaurant is filled with light. At night, it takes a dramatic note with lighting designed to create a more sophisticated atmosphere.
After checking in and being shown to my table, I decide to take the perspective of a person eating a typical meal. This dining experience will include no champagne and lobster (although the latter is on the menu).
Although there are a range of items to pick from, the menu (led by Executive Chef Tri Tran) features a selection of dishes made with a focus on fresh seasonal ingredients infused with rich wines; hence the Italian/Californian connection. Going beyond the typical pizza/pasta and meat/fish options, I decide on something a little different. But first, a glass of wine is in order: Noble Tree Cabernet Sauvignon (2013) from California. It isn’t touched until the first plate of food arrives.
A salad of romaine hearts starts things off. The full head of 
lettuce is sliced in half, lightly grilled with a sliver of parmesan frico resting between the halves (a swirl of pancetta sits to the side), and drizzled with a roasted garlic vinaigrette. Leaves remain crispy and the creamy dressing is just rich enough. Thinking salad isn’t filling is to think incorrectly – appearances are deceiving.
The main is rabbit layered within square-shaped pasta (think open ravioli), Cipollini onions, button and honey mushrooms, topped with crispy sage. It is imperative to eat slowly, appreciating the flavors. The meat is rich and succulent (sometimes rabbit can be tough and gamey) and compliments the earthiness of the mushrooms. The combination works well, especially when one wants to keep warm on a chilly day or night.
Asking if there is anything else to suggest, a separate dessert menu is placed on the table. Their version of a sticky toffee pudding is very popular, so that is ordered. A round, shallow bowl is placed on the table with sponge cake in the centre of a pool of caramel-colored sauce. A scoop of vanilla ice cream sits atop the cake and slivers of almond and strawberry circle the bowl. The fruit was unnecessary: this was about indulgence. To say it is quickly eaten is an understatement (which is why there are no photos of it).
The service never hovers, and is almost invisible. The timing is spot on. Who wants to have someone looking over their shoulder while eating? Also, it should be noted that with the presentation comes price. Cresta isn’t a chain that does cookie-cutter plating across dozens of locations, which is why costs are comparable to other restaurants in the area – people pay for quality.
And for those who enjoy dining al fresco, the two patios will be packed come summer. Who wouldn’t want to take in a meal or just a cocktail while glancing around the historic neighborhood? It’s just an added benefit of eating at Cresta.
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